Chiang Rai – The Golden Triangle
Welcome to Chiang Rai
This is my Chiang Rai Wiki page and will be updated on a regular basis. If you have something to add please comment at the bottom of the page so everyone can benefit.
Chiang Rai (เชียงราย) is situated in northern Thailand and the province shares a border with two countries; Laos and Burma (Myanmar). This is an ideal base for tourists who wish to explore the ‘golden triangle’ and experience the beauty of life on the Mekong. Chiang Rai is also the coolest province in Thailand; we are referring here specifically to temperature but there are many would claim that it is a ‘pretty cool’ place generally.
The Golden Triangle covers an area of about 195,000 square kilometers and covers three separate countries; Thailand, Myanmar, and Laos. The golden triangle was once a place where opium was grown widely, but this is no longer the case on the Thai side of the border. The area is now very dependent on tourism and this probably explains why the locals are so welcoming to visitors.
Those who visit Chiang Rai for the first time are usually impressed by the amount there is to see and do– you could easily spend a long holiday here and not run out of things to keep you occupied. If you have only given yourself a short time to explore the province you will miss out on a lot. Many visitors fall in love with this part of Thailand (sometimes they fall in love with one of the locals as well) and will come back to it again and again.
The city that gives the province its name was the capital of the Lanna kingdom (Northern Thailand) for 34 years back in the thirteenth century. Although Chiang Rai city has never managed to regain that same level of importance, as it briefly managed when first constructed, it has seen a lot of development in recent years – as well as tourism the city is also an important trading area. Chiang Rai might not be as famous as the other main northern city, Chiang Mai, but it certainly has its charms. There is quite a Chinese feel in the town center with street post signs written in Chinese script as well as Thai.
Chiang Rai is one of the most rural provinces in Thailand. The fact that much of the area is mountainous means that for a long time the main crop was opium – it thrives in such conditions. A couple of decades ago it was common for tourists to just come to the area to enjoy this illegal drug. Things have changed in recent years though and anyone coming to Chiang Rai for opium will likely leave very disappointed. These days the majority of those who visit the area are just looking for something a bit different from what can be found on the islands in the bigger Thai cities. These people are usually pleased with what they find in this most northern of all provinces in Thailand.
Chiang Rai Arrivals and Departures
Plane
Chiang Rai International Airport is located about ten kilometers outside the city. It is a small airport with just one terminal and very little in the way of entertainment as you wait for your flight. Even though it is classified as an international airport there are actually no scheduled routes outside of Thailand as yet. It is possible though to get a flight to here from Bangkok, Chiang Mai, and Mae Hong Son. It is hoped that more routes will be added in the future.
Train
There is no train service directly to Chiang Rai, but you can go by rail to Lampang and then switch to a bus from there.
Bus
There are many buses going to Chiang Rai from Bangkok, Chiang Mai, and many other cities in Thailand. The air-conditioned buses are the best choice if your journey is going to be a long one. It takes about fourteen hours from Bangkok to Chiang Rai; although there are some express buses that can do the trip a bit faster. Coming from Chiang Mai it takes about four hours. If you are coming from Lampang you can make the journey in about two hours. The bus station in Chiang Rai is right in the heart of the city beside the night bizarre.
Getting Around Chiang Rai
Public Bus
The public bus service in Chiang Rai is quite good and will be able to take you to most of the destinations you want to get to around the province. The best thing about doing things this way is that it is very cheap. On the down side some routes don’t have many air conditioned buses and you may find yourself on a packed vehicle where you will need to stand for up to an hour.
Rent a Motorbike or Car
There are a few places in the city where you will be able to rent a motorbike or car. This can work out quite well and give you a lot of freedom. If you are experienced using a motorbike you should have few problems although the mountain roads in the north of the province can be dangerous. If you are riding in the city it is important to realize that many drivers ignore the rules of the road completely.
Bicycle
Chiang Rai city can be enjoyed by bicycle and so can most of the other towns in the province. This is safer than the motorbike and it can be a pleasurable way to tour the area. It is also possible to go on longer bike tours if you have the energy for this. The cooler weather in the north of Thailand means that cycling can be more pleasurable – especially during the cool season.
What to See in Chiang Rai
Muang Chiang Rai
Muang Chiang Rai (เมืองเชียงราย) refers to the city and it is here where most tourists to the province will base themselves. Here you will find plenty of hotels, restaurants, bars, bookshops, and all the other things that tourists like. Most people who visit the city remark that it feels a lot more laid back than Chiang Mai; it has the perfect mix of tourist friendliness and local charm. This city has experienced a lot of growth in recent years and there has been a lot of investment made; it is now considered the fastest growing city in Thailand. It has also become the home for a significant number of ex-pats. Shopping in the Chiang Rai is good and you will find a few large department stores.
Mae Salong
If you have ever wanted to visit China but don’t want to actually make the effort to travel to that country you should visit Mae Salong (แม่สลอง). This has been described as one of the most Chinese villages outside of China and if you visit you will understand why. The area was settled by ex-soldiers who fought against Mao during the civil war in China. They were given refugee status in the sixties and have since managed to recreate China within Thailand. The local scenery is wonderful here and it is well worth a visit. It is possible to pick up an ordinary bus from Chiang Rai and it will take about an hour to make the journey. Alternatively you might want to rent private transport and arrive at Mae Salong in a bit more comfort. A lot of people just come for the day but there are a few accommodation options in Mae Salong.
Mae Sai
Mae Sai is a border town in the north of Chiang Rai province. In the past it was a very popular destination for people looking to extend their time in Thailand. These ‘border runs’ have become a bit less popular in recent years as it is now only possible to get a new visa for fifteen days by visiting the border. In the past you could get a visa for thirty days and some people managed to extend their stay in Thailand for years by making monthly visits to Mae Sai; crossing the border and coming right back again with a brand new tourist visa.
Mae Sai is a typical border town and has been described as having a bit of Wild West feel to it. The town is also the most northern point in the whole of Thailand and you can have your photo taken beside a nice sign that confirms this. This border town would probably not be described as the most attractive place in Thailand but it is worth a visit. There are a few restaurants and bars in Mae Sai and some of these cater specifically for westerners.
The other side of the border from Mae Sai is Tachileik. If you have the time it is well worth crossing over and seeing what life is like in Myanmar (Burma). It is possible to get a visa on arrival and most people will just cross for a few hours and then come back again. Although the Thai town and Burmese town are only separated by a river they really are like two completely different worlds. The poverty in Tachileik will often startle visitors and many are shocked by the number of beggars – something you don’t really see much of in Thailand.
There are frequent buses going from Chiang Rai city to Mae Sai; the trip takes about an hour and a half. If you get a bus without air-conditioning it can feel like a lot longer.
Wat Phra Kaew
Until 1434 Wat Phra Kaew (วัดพระแก้ว) was the home to the most important relic in the whole of Thailand, the Emerald Buddha. This Emerald Buddha is now housed in the grounds of the Grand Palace in Bangkok (incidentally the temple where it is now housed is also called Wat Phra Kaew). In 1991 a new jade image was created and presented to the original Wat Phra Kaew. This is a beautiful temple that has managed to survive for centuries. As well as the new jade statue there is also a 700 year old brass image of the Buddha that is another great treasure of the people of Thailand. The temple can be found in Chiang Rai city and no visit to the area is complete until you have visited.
Doi Tung
Doi Tung (ดอยธง) means Flag Mountain in Thai; this name comes from the fact that a Lanna king once ordered that a flag be placed up on the peak. It is now sometimes referred to as ‘Switzerland’ by the local people. If they had even been to Switzerland they would probably change their mind, but it is a beautiful mountain area all the same. Doi Tung is covered in a monsoon forest and at its peak reaches 5,900 feet (1,800 meters). If the weather is clear you will be able to see right into Burma from on top of this mountain. Doi Tung is located not far from Mai Sai.
Mae Fah Luang Gardens
Mae Fah Luang Botanical Gardens can be found at Doi Tung; close to the Burmese border. The area where the garden is now situated was once used to grow opium. Her Royal Highness the Princess Mother of Thailand asked that this location be turned into a botanical beauty spot and that is what is there today. It is made up of flowers from all the different parts of the world; the fact that it is almost a thousand meters above sea level means that there are many things that can grow here that wouldn’t survive elsewhere in Thailand.
Chiang Saen
Chiang Saen (เชียงแสน) is another district in northern Chiang Rai province. Chiang Saen town is right on the banks of the Mekong River and this is one of the main attractions for visitors to the area. The riverfront here always seems to be abuzz with activity and there are many longboats available to take visitors on water tours. There are also a lot of nice buildings to see in the town and the city walls are also the subject of a lot of interest to visitors. Chiang Saen is small enough for visitors to explore the whole area on foot or by bicycle.
What to Do in Chiang Rai
Visit the Hill Tribe Museum
There are quite a few hill tribes living in Chiang Rai province and this museum can allow visitors to find out more about them. There is a lot of worry that these cultures are in danger from modern changes and change is meaning that many of the old ways are being lost. It is the aim of the Hill Tribe Museum to help preserve the culture of these groups. This museum can be found right in the centre of Chiang Rai city in the PDA building.
Enjoy a Few Days in a Rural Location
If you want to spend a few days completely away from tourist Thailand then you will find many small resorts and small hotels spread around Chiang Rai province. Many of these areas hardly ever see foreign visitors and when you explore it will feel like you are experiencing something unique. Another option is to go camping; although it is always advised that you stick to the recommended camping grounds.
Chiang Rai Night Bizarre
The Chiang Rai night bizarre might not be as big as the one found in Chiang Mai, but it certainly has its own charm. Here you will find plenty of gifts to bring home including items created by the hill tribes. There is also usually a bit of live entertainment available in the evenings and there is outside dining available too – a nice way to spend the evening if you have a bit of time to spare.
Learn Thai
There are a few private schools offering Thai lessons in Chiang Rai. This is a nice place to learn the language because you are likely to get more of a chance to practice it. Unlike bigger cities like Chiang Mai, many of the hotel receptionists, restaurant owners, and shop owners will be relieved to speak to you in Thai. AUA is one of the most respected organizations running Thai lessons in Thailand and they have an office in Chiang Rai.
Bicycle Tours
It is possible to see a lot of Chiang Rai by bicycle; especially when you get away from the main streets. There are a few places offering bicycle tours of the city and surroundings and this can be a nice day out.
Hiking in the Golden Triangle
It would be a shame to come to Chiang Rai and not explore the golden triangle. One of the most satisfying ways of doing this is by hiking. Once you get off the main roads you begin to see a part of Thailand that has managed to stay more or less the same for centuries. During a hike you will get to experience not only some stunning countryside but also visit the small villages of the hill tribes. There are many different tours available and there are a few travel agencies in Chiang Rai city that will be able to offer assistance.
River Cruise
River cruises along Mae Kok are very popular and these will often involved stopping off at hill tribe villages. If you are feeling really adventurous you can travel to Laos by boat from Chiang Rai.
A Night on the Town
Chiang Rai has nowhere near as many bars and restaurants as Chiang Mai, but it does have enough to keep you entertained during your stay. Most of the western style bars can be found on Thanon Wat Jet Yot. There is also a few go-go and beer bars nearby for those who enjoy that sort of thing.
Play Golf
If golf is your game then you will find two courses that may be of interest in Chiang Rai. Santiburi Golf Course is about ten kilometers outside of the city and is considered to be one of the best courses in the whole of Thailand. If you just want to practice your swing there are also a couple of golf ranges in the local area as well.
Off the Beaten Track in Chiang Rai
Chiang Rai Beach
It may seem odd that Chiang Rai should have a beach; after all it is almost 900 kilometers from the sea! In fact Chiang Rai Beach is right on the edge of the Kok River and it is a fun place to spend some time. Chiang Rai Beach is right beside the city and you will find plenty to entertain you there. There are a few restaurants in the area as well as open bamboo constructions where you can sit for the afternoon. This is not somewhere that you would probably want to go in the rainy season though.
Phu Chi Fa Forest Park
Those visitors who happen to visit Phu Chi Fa Forest Park will often feel like they have stumbled upon a real jewel. This area is a popular place for Thais to visit but has yet to really appear on the tourist map – some would say that this is a good thing. Phu Chi Fa is located right in the heart of Doi Pa Mohn Mountain range. Make sure you bring your camera because there are some stunning scenic spots around the forest.
Wat Pa Sak
Wat Pa Sak is just outside the city walls in Chiang Saen. Many would consider this to be one of the most beautiful temples in northern Thailand. Pa Sak (ป่าสัก) is Thai for teak forest and the temple gets its name from all the teak trees that were planted here. The buildings are a good example of Lanna style architecture; the temple was built all the way back in 1295. You will find Wat Pa Sak near the western gate in Chiang Saen.
Ruammit
Ruammit is a Karen village that is about 12 miles (20 kilometers) away from Chiang Rai town. Many people will travel to this area on a long boat and this is highly recommended. Once you reach Ruammit you can further explore the area on the back of an elephant – if you so wish.
Buffalo Horn Hill
Buffalo Horn Hill is just a few kilometers out of the city and it is another place well worth making the effort to visit. From up here you can get to see the whole of the city. It is especially nice to visit in the evenings when you can enjoy the view from a local restaurant. The easiest way to get here is probably by rented motorbike. Kun Korn waterfall is also nearby and this is worth a visit as well.
Emergencies in Chiang Rai
Chiang Rai is quite a safe place and few tourists report any problems. Road accidents are a risk; especially for those people who rent motorbikes. If you are going to rent a bike be extra careful and always wear a good helmet; don’t accept one of the cheap helmets as these are just for decoration and won’t protect your head.
The best hospital in Chiang Rai is Kasemrad Sriburin General Hospital (053-717499). This hospital provides an emergency ambulance service (053-700200). Kasemrad hospital is considered a high quality private hospital that should be able to manage most medical problems and emergencies.
If you are the victim of crime you will be able to contact the tourist police in Chiang Rai (053-717796 / 053-717779 / 053-740249). It is recommended that you should always try to deal with the tourist police rather than the regular police because they have been specifically trained to deal with foreigners – most important of all they will be more likely to speak English.
Highlights of Chiang Rai
- Chiang Rai beach is a nice place to spend the afternoon. Don’t be put off by the fact that you are so far away from the sea.
- Hike through the Golden Triangle and visit the villages of the various hill tribes.
- Spend the evening in Chiang Rai night bizarre and pick up a cheap gift or just relax in and outdoor restaurant.
- Travel to Doi Tung as see if the Thais are right to name this area ‘Switzerland’.
Where to Next?
- Travel to Chiang Mai and enjoy the capital of Northern Thailand. This is a much bigger city and offers a lot more in the way of entertainment and dining.
- Cross the border into Laos. One really nice way of doing this is to get a boat along the Mekong and spend a few days traveling all the way to Luang Prabang. This is a long trip but likely one you will never forget.
- Visit Lampang. If you intend to travel back down south then it can be nice to stop along the way at Lampang and get to discover a city that doesn’t see too many tourists.
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