Hua Hin – The Royal Retreat
Welcome to Hua Hin
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Hua Hin (หัวหิน) is a popular resort town that attracts visitors from all around the world. It is a district of Prachuap Khiri Khan Province. This destination has the honor of also being the location where the Thai Royal family often likes to go for a break – they have a summer residence here. As you might expect there are also quite a few Hua Hin luxury hotels for us common folk to live like royalty. The name Hua Hin is Thai for ‘stone head’ and it refers to the many granite rocks that can be found near the water’s edge.
Hua Hin was actually Thailand’s very first beach resort but for a long time it was mostly just Thais who came here to enjoy the Hua Hin beaches – people looking for a break from Bangkok. This has all changed though and now there is a real international feel to the place. As well as catering for many tourists there is also a large ex-pat population living in Hua Hin. This is a popular choice for retirees; it is not as busy as Pattaya and is still relatively near to Bangkok and you get to enjoy the outstanding Hua Hin weather. Hua Hin real estate is also much cheaper than that in Bangkok, Phuket or Samui.
Many visitors to Hua Hin will limit themselves to just the town and beach. This is a pity, because there are plenty of other great things to see in Prachuap Khiri Khan Province. If you have the time it is highly recommended that you explore further afield; go to places like Cha-Am and Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park. Hua Hin is located near the thinnest part of Thailand and some points along the coast are as little as 11 kilometers from Myanmar.
Hua Hin Arrivals and Departures
Hua Hin is situated about 250km south of Bangkok; it is possible to make the journey in about two and a half hours. It was once possible to make the trip by plane but this is no longer possible; although the service might return at a later date. There are plenty of other options though for those arriving here.
Train
Rail is probably one of the nicest ways to travel to Hua Hin; if only because the train station is one of the most beautiful in Asia. Hua Hin train station is located right in the heart of the town and this makes it a good getting off point. If you are in Bangkok you will catch a train to Hua Hin at Hua Lamphong – there are trains regularly throughout the day. It can take a bit longer to travel by train than by road but it is the more relaxing way to make the journey – it usually takes about four hours.
Buses
There are plenty of buses arriving in Hua Hin from different parts of Thailand; both private and government. If you want to pick up a government bus in Bangkok you will find these at the Southern Bus Terminal – buses leave every thirty minutes for most of the day and it takes about three hours to make the journey. If you go by rot-air (air-conditioned bus) you will find that this is a comfortable way to make the journey. You will also find plenty of private coaches and minibuses going to Hua Hin from other tourist areas in Thailand – just check with a local tour operator.
Taxi
If you are coming from Suwarnabhumi Airport the best option is probably to hire a taxi. This will cost a couple of thousand Baht but it can make the journey in about two hours. If you are sharing a taxi with other people then this can be a cost-effective solution.
Getting Around Hua Hin
Rent a Car or Motorbike
It is possible to rent a car or motorbike in Hua Hin and this can be a good idea if you want to explore the rest of Prachuap Khiri Khan Province. Plus a Hua Hin car rental is more economical if you plan on spending a week or more in town. Traffic in the town can sometimes be a bit chaotic but most of the local roads are easy to drive upon. If you want to hire a motorbike you will want to be cautious and this is not a good option for the experienced rider – fatalities for motorbike accidents in Thailand are notoriously high.
Motorbike Taxis
You will see plenty of motorbike taxies whizzing about Hua Hin. This is a reasonably priced option for getting from A to B but always negotiate the price beforehand. If you are of the nervous disposition then you might want to avoid the motorbike taxis; these riders are very skilled but they can are famous for their recklessness. Always insist on a quality helmet if you get on one of these bikes.
Tuk-tuks
There is a reasonable Tuk-tuk service in Hua Hin and this can be a good option if you don’t want to risk your life on a motorbike taxi. It is also advisable to always negotiate the price first with these drivers before setting off on your journey. Hotel, restaurant, and bar staff should be able to advice you about how much you should expect to pay. If you are asked for a lot more than this you will want to look for another Tuk-tuk driver.
Bicycle Taxi
If you are not in any rush to get somewhere then you might choose a bicycle taxi. This can be a relaxing way to travel around; although it is hard not to feel sorry for the rider. Bicycle taxis are of course not recommended for long distances unless you are some type of sadist.
Songthaew
The Songthaew service in Hua Hin goes along all the main routes from early in the morning until late into the evening. This is not only the cheapest way to travel around Hua Hin but it can also be nice to spend some time with local people.
Where to Go in Hua Hin
Hua Hin Beach
Hua Hin beach is probably one place where probably all visitors to the town will spend some time. The beach is 3km long and there are plenty of Hua Hin accommodation, mostly resorts and condominiums spread out along its lengths – although it is still possible to find somewhere peaceful. The white sands are quite fine but nice to walk on; at least for short distances anyway. The water is inviting and there are usually plenty of activities to keep you occupied. Parts of Hua Hin beach can get crowded during the day, but luckily it is long enough to be able to get away from it all.
Wat Khao Takiap
Wat Khao Takiap is not only a great example of a Thai temple but it is also a good place to visit if you want a nice view of the city. You will find Wat Khao Takiap in the hills south of the city; it is located right next to the beach. The main parts of the temple are up on the hill. The monks here are always welcoming to strangers, but they do receive a lot of visitors. Make sure you take your camera as there are some great photo opportunities here – including a 17 meter high Buddha.
Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park
Khao Sam Roi Yot National Park is about 70kms away from Hua Hin city but it is well worth making the trip if you have the time. The park gets its name from the fact that it is believed to have three hundred peaks (Khao Sam Roi/ ขาสามร้อย is Thai for ‘three hundred mountains’). The park covers a huge area; almost 100 square kilometers and contains some fascinating sights. As well as having plenty of mountain peaks you will also find some interesting caves in the park.
Khao Hin Lek Fai
Khao Hin Lek Fai is popular with the local Thais; many people come here to exercise once the day starts to cool. This is also a good place for tourists to come as it offers an impressive view of the city – it is over 160 meters above sea level. There is also a nice park and a small market nearby. You will find Khao Hin Lek Fai three kilometers to the west of Hua Hin town. Early mornings and evenings are the best time to visit.
Cha-Am
Cha-Am is another beach resort that is about 25km to the north of Hua Hin. This is a very popular location with Thai holiday makers, but in recent years there have been a lot of foreigners making the journey here as well. If you have never been to a traditional Thai beach resort then it is well worth a visit – you will notice that the women go swimming in their clothes and that the beach is full of families with tons of food and drink. When Thai people go to the beach they really make an occasion of it.
Cha-Am can get really busy on holidays and at the weekends. There are plenty of hotels here and some foreigners prefer to stay here rather than Hua Hin – it is usually possible to find a cheap hotel or resort from Monday to Fridays. There are also a few notable bars and restaurants in the town as well as plenty of shops selling all manner of souvenirs. The beach itself is approximately 5km long and there is usually a lot of activities available – and plenty of vendors walking the beach.
Many tourists who visit places like Hua Hin tend to spend most of their time with other tourists. This is why it is so nice to visit a place like Cha-Am. Here you will get to see how local people like to holiday and you will get to experience something a bit more traditionally Thai. You will also likely find that Cha-Am is a friendly place where life is generally slow.
Things to Do in Hua Hin
Hua Hin Night Market
Hua Hin night market is worth a visit if you want to see a typical Thai market in action. There are always a lot of interesting items on sale with the main focus being on different types of fresh food. You will also find a number of outdoor cheap Hua Hin restaurants and vendors selling every type of food imaginable. If you are hungry in Hua Hin after dark there will be something here to satisfy your hunger. If you aren’t feeling hungry you will also find plenty of souvenirs and other interesting items on sale. This is the place to take care of your Hua Hin shopping without breaking the bank. The market opens from about six in the evening until midnight. You will find Hua Hin night market beside the train tracks at Thanon Petchkasem.
Hua Hin Pier
A walk along Hua Hin Pier in the evenings or early mornings (escape the hot Hua Hin weather) can be a rewarding experience. It is peaceful here and it is easy to imagine what the town must have been like before the arrival of hordes of tourists. This is also a good place to pick up fresh seafood on sale in the mornings. The pier itself isn’t too long but just enough to stretch your legs.
Visit the Royal Palace
The Thai Royal family has a residence on the outskirts of Hua Hin. It is called Klai Kangwon Palace and you can visit here any time of the year so long as the Royal family isn’t in residence. The palace is about eighty years old and there is some interesting architecture and beautiful gardens.
Horse Riding on the Beach in Hua Hin
If you have always wanted to ride a horse but never got around to it then you might want to remedy the situation during your stay in Hua Hin. You will often see people riding horses on the beach and these can be hired; you will find this service offered on the beach near Sofitel. There are generally plenty of horses but during the high season you might have to wait a little while. It is well worth it though because horse riding on the beach in Hua Hin is great fun.
Visit Hua Hin Train Station
Even if you have no plans to go anywhere the train station in Hua Hin is still worth a visit. This is one of the most attractive railway stations in the whole of Thailand and has become somewhat of a tourist attraction. In fact this railway station building was actually once a pavilion in a Thai palace.
Go See the Luang Phor Tuad Statue
Luang Phor means ‘respected father’ in Thai and Luang Phor Tuad is one of the most revered of all Thai monks. His statue can be found at Wat Huay in Hua Hin. Many foreign visitors mistake this statue for one of the Buddha, but it is actually Luang Phor Tuad. You will often see Thai people wear an amulet with his image and mantra because it is believed that they have great power. As well as the statue you will also find a few other interesting buildings and images at this temple along with a nice park – there are also a few restaurants nearby if you are feeling hungry. Wat Huay can be found about 20kms to the west of the city.
Go Elephant Riding
Elephant riding is one of the most unforgettable experiences you can have during a trip to Thailand and you will be able to try this in Hua Hin. Elephants were once commonly used in Thailand for transport because they are able to go places that would be otherwise be difficult to reach. There is an elephant riding available in a number of locations in Hua Hin and this can be a fun way to spend the afternoon.
Watch a Muay Thai Fight
Muay Thai is one of the most respected martial arts in the world and it is also the national sport of Thailand. Getting to see this combat live is a far more rewarding than seeing it in a movie. There is a small stadium in Hua Hin and they have regular fight programs here. You will find the stadium right beside the Grand Hotel; just look for the signs pointing the way. You should also notice signs around the town promoting the next event. If you wish to learn Muay Thai during your stay you will find a couple of gyms that cater for tourists of all levels and experience.
Play Golf
If you enjoy golf then you will find a few nice courses within the Hua Hin area; some of these courses have been designed by top golfers – including one by Jack Nicklaus. One reason why so many people retire to Hua Hin is because of the great golfing opportunities. If this is a sport that you enjoy then you will have plenty to keep you entertained during your stay. You should also find that fees for a round of golf are very reasonable when compared to other parts of the world.
Hua Hin Nightlife Scene
The Hua Hin nightlife is not as impressive as what you might find in places like Pattaya or Phuket but there is plenty here to keep visitors entertained in Hua Hin after dark. Many of the bars are managed by ex-pats and the ambiance is usually welcoming to visitors. Some of the bars have things like darts and pool leagues and you will see quiz nights hosted regularly. Joining in these events is a great way to meet the local ex-pat population and benefit from their wisdom – although you may occasionally hear a tall tale or two.
Spend the Day in a Spa
There are a number of different spas to be found in the Hua Hin luxury hotels and these offer varying degrees of pampering. It is possible to benefit from a few hours at one of these places without spending too much money; if you want to be really spoiled though you will need to dig deeper in your pockets. These spas offer treatments from Thai medicine as well as treatments from other parts of the world – things like Reiki and Qi Gong. You will also find facilities like Jacuzzis and beauty treatments – a day at one of these spas and you are likely to feel fully rejuvenated.
Visit Wat Ampharam
Although Amphraram temple is right in the heart of Hua Hin city it is often missed by tourists. It is worth visiting though because it is a fully functioning temple and important for the local Thai community. In Thailand the temple is very much a part of people’s lives and there is always a lot going on in them.
Off the Beaten Track in Hua Hin
Pa La U Waterfall
Pa La U Waterfall (น้ำตกป่าละอู) is well worth a visit if you get the opportunity – it can be found a little over 60km away from Hua Hin. The waterfall is located in a lush area of jungle and there are 11 different levels to it. It can be challenging to reach some of the levels of this waterfall, but if you are feeling adventurous you can trek to most of them. There is also some amazing local wildlife to be seen in the surrounding area.
Had Sai Noi
Had Sai Noi is a delightful beach that is 20km outside of Hua Hin to the south of the city. This is not only one of the nicest beaches in Prachuap Khiri Khan Province but it is also usually peaceful. Had Sai Noi beach can be found near the village of Khao Tao.
Emergencies in Hua Hin
Hua Hin like most of Thailand is generally safe for the tourist. Where crime does occur it is can often be because visitors have made unwise decisions; they have gotten into drunken arguments or put themselves in a position where they are unsafe. There is no need to be overly paranoid in Hua Hin, but it does pay to keep your wits about you. Alcohol can cause people to lower their inhibitions and this is when you need to be most careful.
If you do find that you are a victim of crime then the best advice will be to get assistance from the tourist police rather than the regular force. There is a tourist police station in Hua Hin but in an emergency you can just call 1155; this is the same number you use no matter where you are in Thailand.
There are some relatively good hospitals in Hua Hin, but for serious conditions you might be taken to Bangkok – a lot will depend on your level of insurance or ability to pay. One of the main private hospitals in the area is San Paulo Hospital (032 512 526) and this has a good reputation – although its main focus is plastic surgery. Many of the doctors and some of the nurses speak good English here. Hua Hin hospital (032 520401) is government run and so a lot cheaper to use than the private hospital – this can be a good choice if your injuries are minor and you don’t mind waiting a long time.
Highlight of Hua Hin
-A visit to Wat Khao Takiap where you will not only get to see a beautiful temple but also catch some amazing views of the city. This is one spot in Hua Hin that you won’t want to miss.
- A night partying in Hua Hin is not to be missed. There might not be as many bars as you will find in Pattaya but the locals make up for this with enthusiasm.
- A visit to Hua Hin train station is recommended even if you don’t plan to travel anywhere. This is one of the most beautiful train stations in Asia and the building once was part of a palace.
- A day spent relaxing on Hua Hin beach is something that visitors are going to really miss when they return home.
Where to Next?
- If you travel further south you will be able to visit the exotic islands of Koh Samui, Koh Tao and Koh Phangan – you will find these just off the coast of Surat Thani province.
- If Hua Hin isn’t hedonistic enough for you then you might want to travel to Pattaya – this is party central in Thailand.
- If you have had enough of the beach then you might want to travel up to northeast Thailand where you can explore the less traveled Isaan.














