Welcome to Koh Phangan

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During the last couple of decades Koh Phangan (เกาะพะงัน) has become the favorite location for budget travelers looking for something different. Of course Koh Phangan cheap accommodations was part of the draw, but other factors have helped draw many young travelers to Phangan. This is the home of the famous Full Moon parties when hedonists bounce to the beat until they collapse in a heap – usually well into the next day. Despite its reputation for young (and not so young) people going wild, much of the island maintains a sleepy atmosphere; in fact many would claim that it is the most tranquil place in Thailand. On parts of the island it is still possible to imagine how things must have been before the arrival of tourists. Most people will just refer to the island of Phangan as Koh (pronounced more like gaw) which just means “island” in Thai.

The book “The Beach” by Alex Garland, which was later made into a film, really brought Phangan to the forefront of many people’s attention; even though only part of the story is focused on the island. The sentiment of the book sums up the adventurous spirit that drives many to visit Phangan. Unlike its touristy neighbor Koh Samui (เกาะสมุย), this island still holds a promise of something unique and exotic. Recent years have seen the increase of luxury resorts, but the mainstay of the island is still simple and cheap accommodation. Many of those who visited the island more than a decade ago now claim that it’s no longer as good – that it is becoming too commercial. It is true that Koh Phangan has become a lot more popular, but it has managed to keep much of its charm despite this. And of course there is always the outstanding Koh Phangan weather to consider.

Koh Phangan Arrivals and Departures

Plane
There are a number of options for those wishing to visit Koh Phangan. There is no airport on the island, but you can catch a flight to nearby Koh Samui; here you will find one of the most beautiful airports in the world. There is also another airport on the mainland in Surat Thani (สุราษฎร์ธานี); this usually works out to be a much cheaper option than flying in and out of Samui.

Boat
Most people traveling to Koh Phangan come by boat from the port in Surat Thani province or from the bigger island Koh Samui. If you want to travel from Koh Samui to Koh Phangan you will be able to do this from a number of locations. Big Buddha pier has about three boats per day going directly to Haad Rin (the place some would call party central) in Phangan. There is also a boat from Mae Nam in Samui which takes you to Thong Sala which is the biggest town on the island. As well as this you can rent speed boats or long tail boats to take you across from Samui to your Phangan accommodation or wherever you want to go on Phangan.

There are many boats leaving from the port in Surat Thani to Koh Phangan; some of these go direct while others will stop at Samui first. The boats go about every two hours throughout the day and there is also a night boat. The journey takes about three to four hours depending on the boat and the time of year. It is also possible to catch a boat from Chumphon (ชุมพร); this port is nearer to Bangkok and also has regular ferries to the island.

If you are staying in Bangkok then you will have the option of going to Surat Thani by train or bus. Those staying near Khao San Road will find plenty of travel agents willing to arrange buses to the island. These can pick you up from your hotel and deliver you right to the port in Surat Thani. If you fancy a bit more comfort you may want to travel by train from Hua Lamphong Station (สถานีหัวลำโพง); if you book in advance and travel by night you should be able to get a sleeper. Those traveling by train have the option of getting off at Chumphon and catching a ferry from there.

During the journey by boat to Kho Phangan it is important that you use protection against the sun. Many people are lulled into a feeling of safety by the sea breeze and get badly burned; this can ruin your whole trip. Even on a cloudy day you will need to be careful and use sun block when traveling by boat. Remember that the island is quite near the equator and Koh Phangan weather is tropical.

More information about Getting to Koh Phangan (airline routes, buses, trains and ferry schedules).

Getting Around Koh Phangan
The roads on Phangan are notoriously bad and some would say that renting motorbikes is far too easy. During your stay you are sure to meet lots of westerners with all types of injuries which they obtained while riding motorbikes there – it is probably best if you don’t become one of them. It is possible to rent a motorbike cheaply on the island, but a cynic might say that those doing the renting make more money from tourists damaging the bikes and paying top rates for repairs. The owners can be confident of you paying because they have your passport as a deposit. The benefits you get from renting a motorbike in Phangan doesn’t really make up for the risk you take. If you do insist on renting one make sure you always wear a helmet and never drink alcohol before riding it – don’t mind what anyone else is doing.

The songthaew is the main mode of transport for tourist to Phangan. The words “song thaew” roughly translated mean “two rows” in Thai; it refers to the fact that there are two benches for people to sit on. These songthaew are like a mix between a bus and a taxi service on the island. You will be able to get to wherever you want to go using this form of transport, and you should be able to easily find one wherever you are staying – if not all the resorts, bars and restaurants will have contact numbers. If the place you want to travel to is very remote expect to pay a bit more.

The nicest way to travel around Phangan is by boat; it can also be faster to some destinations. All the beaches will have a service that you can rent to take you to wherever you want to go on the island.

What to See in Koh Phangan
Haad Rin
Haad Rin is the home of the Full Moon party and for some people this is the only part of the island they will ever see. As you would expect there are plenty of bars and some of the best are right on the beach. There are also many Koh Phangan accommodation in this area, but be sure to book early if you are coming for the full moon party as they fill up fast. The most celebrated drink in Haad Rin is the bucket; this is made up of vodka, red bull, coke, and sometimes a lot more as well. Haad Rin once had a reputation as an easy place to buy illegal substances, the Thai police are serious about changing this – penalties for tourists caught with banned products can be severe. As well as full-moon parties they also celebrate half-moon as well. Even when there is no real event you are always sure to find a party at Haad Rin.

Haad Yao
This is usually considered the most beautiful beach in Koh Phangan and with good reason. Most people are quite taken aback by the beauty when they first visit. There are plenty of beach activities on Haad Yao, but most people prefer to just soak up the sun. There are a few nice restaurants and bars locally but if you really want to party you will be best heading to Haad Rin or Thong Sala.

Thong Sala
A lot of visitors only see Thong Sala on arrival and departure. This is a pity because it really is a funky little town with a great atmosphere. Tesco-Lotus opened here a few years ago and many saw this as the end of the world; the town has remained much the same though. Some tourists see boycotting Tesco in Thong Sala as a way of boosting their standing as ‘real’ backpackers.

Tong Nai Pan
Tong Nai Pan is made up of two beaches; Tong Nai Pan Yai is the longest (Yai means big in Thai) and Tong Nai Pan Noi is a smaller stretch of beach. The two are separated by a headland but you can go from one beach to the other if you have the energy for a bit of a hike. This part of the island has probably been the least spoiled in recent years, and you will probably want to go here for the cheapest Phangan accommodation. Tong Nai Pan is the area where backpackers once boasted of being able to live for less than a $1 a day. You will meet plenty of tourists who come back every year so expect plenty of stories of how things used to be before it went commercial. This area will appeal to those types of people who like to think of themselves as travelers rather than tourists.

Chalok Lam
Chalok Lam is a great place to choose if you want to spend days lying on the beach and the evenings in nice restaurants and bars; people do party here but in a much more sedate way than in Haad Rin. This is still an area where fishing is important but tourism has meant that most people now make their living from visitors. Staying on this part of Koh Phangan can feel like being on a completely separate island; this is due to the fact that you mostly have mountains between the beach and the rest of Phangan. People staying here tend to take up residence on a part of 3 kilometer beach during the day, walk along the shoreline at sunset, before heading to the village (which is now nearing the size of a town) in the evenings.

What to Do in Koh Phangan
Phangan does not offer the same number of options as Koh Samui but there are still plenty of things to do. Many visitors don’t want to do much except lie in a hammock enjoying the Koh Phangan weather, reading a book all day and partying at night – they really have taken on the Thai attitude of sabai-sabai (which can be meant in this context to mean “happy and comfortable”) to heart. If you are a bit more energetic you will find many things to keep you busy on Phangan.

Water and Beach Activities
Scuba diving is a popular choice for people who have a bit of time on the island. If this is not something that you have tried before then this can be a great opportunity to see what you are missing. If you see people coming back from their first dive you will often notice a look of wonder on their faces. There are a few nice dive locations not far from the island and you can do a full Open Water Course or just go for an adventure dive. Many people who are backpacking around the world choose Koh Phangan to learn diving so that they have a license to dive when they visit other parts of the world – it works out a lot cheaper to do this on the island. If scuba seems too much of a challenge for you then you can also find plenty of opportunities for snorkeling.

The beaches are a source of plenty of activities as well. Maybe you will be tempted to join in on a game of volleyball or football or you can even try your hand at wakeboarding.

Muay Thai
If you have a lot of energy then you might want to consider learning the deadly Thai art of Muay Thai. There are a couple of good gyms on the island and they will be able to train those who are complete beginners or boxers with a bit more experience. If you really take a liking to these lessons you might even decide to step into the ring before you leave and test out your skills for real.

Thai Cooking
Thailand is renowned for having some really tasty food. If you have grown to like it during your trip you may want to cook these dishes when you return home. You will find a number of places that offer Thai cooking lessons on the island; the really great thing is that you get to eat what you create.

Thai Massage
The massage treatments of Thailand have received worldwide praise for their ability to treat all types of ailments. Nuad Thai (นวดไทย) is not only something that you can have done for your body, but you can also use your time on the island to learn the different techniques. Many people have used these courses in Thailand to start a business back in their home countries; this way they were able to finance future trips to the island.

Meditation
If you are not already relaxed enough then you can learn meditation on Koh Phangan. You will find retreats lasting 10 days or more, but it is also possible to do shorter courses.

Off the Beaten Track in Koh Phangan
The beaches are only part of what is on offer in Koh Phangan and if you are prepared for a little exercise there are some great treats in store. If you want something off the beaten track in Koh Phangan then head into the much neglected center of the island.

Phaeng Waterfall National Park
Most visitors to Koh Phangan miss out on a trip to Phaeng Waterfall National Park. This is a real shame because it is well worth seeing. The title ‘National Park’ makes this location sound a lot grander than what it actually is. What you will find is overgrown dirt tracks, steep climbs, and an attractive waterfall. You might work up a bit of a sweat as you do this hike but it is well worth it.

Khao Ra Viewpoint
This is actually not too far from Phaeng waterfall so you will be able to see both during the same trip. This is the highest point on the island and you will find an overlook where you can see probably the best view of the Koh Phangan coast – make sure you take your camera because you will want a few snaps of this. Some people do choose to use a guide for this trip, but the choice to do so will depend on your sense of adventure and your available budget. As well as getting to Khao Ra from Phaeng waterfall it is also possible to go from Madua Wan village.

Wat Pho Herbal Sauna
If there is one thing that Phangan does well it is help people relax. This herbal sauna is managed by monks, and as strange as it sounds a sauna in a tropical location does make sense. It is not only believed to be good for easing stress, but also for helping to cure many ailments. This is free to use, but it is nice to give the monks a donation if they have helped you.

Emergencies in Koh Phangan
Emergency services on Koh Phangan are not as extensive as what you will find on Samui or the mainland. The main hospital is located near Thong Sala at Baan Tai beach and here you will receive good care for most ailments and accidents. There are frequent trauma cases on the island due to motorbike accidents, and drunken misadventures. Most of these can be treated on the island, but the more serious cases will tend to be transferred to Samui or the mainland once the patient is stable. This hospital has improved a lot in recent years due to the increasing number of tourists. The main telephone number is 077 239599. There are also a couple of medical clinics that are familiar with dealing with foreigners; you will find these in Haad Rin. There is also a rescue service that can be contacted by phoning 077 377 118.

If you have been involved in an incident that requires police assistance then you will be best off dealing with the tourist police. This branch of the Royal Thai Police Force has been specifically trained to deal with tourists; most can speak at least some English and they will be able to summon interpreters. It is recommended that foreigners deal with the tourist police rather than the main force. You can contact the tourist police on Phangan by dialing 1155; if there is an emergency you can dial 191. In the case of fire the number to ring is 199.

In recent years there have been a number of cases of tourists falling victim to crime or violence on the island. The party atmosphere can sometimes turn sour and things turn violent. As well as confrontations between tourists there can occasionally be violence erupting between tourists and the locals. Thai people on the whole tend to be placid and will only usually resort to violence if they have been made to lose face. It is important to never insult a Thai or to threaten them. Losing your temper in Thailand is viewed very negatively and it can quickly lead to violence. The best advice is to avoid being confrontational and walk away if violence seems likely to occur.

Highlights of Koh Phangan
Koh Phangan offers a lot of options for visitors, but there are a few highlights that everyone should check out during their time there.

- Visit Khao Ra and see the most spectacular view of the Phangan coast.
- Spend the day on Haad Yao beach and get to experience what the words ‘tropical paradise’ really mean.
- Go shopping in Thong Sala and find some special gifts to take back home.
- Travel around the island by boat; this is a great way to see a different side of Phangan.
- Go to the half-moon or full-moon party at Haad Rin; many people say that you haven’t visited the islands until you have been to this all-night party.

Where to Next?
If you like Koh Phangan then you might want to also pay a visit to Koh Tao (Turtle Island). This destination is particularly popular for those who like scuba diving, but there is a lot to offer any visitor. This can make a great day trip from Phangan, but many people prefer a longer stay.

Another place where you might consider going next would be Koh Samui. If you think Phangan is a bit quiet then this bigger island might be perfect for you. The main tourist town Chaweng is a bustling place and it will feel like a city after you have been on Phangan for a while.