Welcome to Pai

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You will sometimes hear visitors describing Pai (ปาย) like it was some type of Shangri-la; a mythical town separated from the rest of civilization. This would probably be considered a bit of an exaggeration nowadays though as Pai is firmly placed on the tourist map; there are even a number of luxury resorts in the area. On the other hand, there is no doubting that this is a unique place that deserves to be praised. It is also certainly true to say that the local scenery makes the trip up the mountains well worth it. The relationship between the locals and foreign visitors has been much praised in the past; although some would say that this is changing.

Pai is situated in Mae Hong Song (แม่ฮ่องสอน) province in northern Thailand. This area is believed to have been inhabited by people for at least 5,000 years. For a long time it was the Shan tribes who populated the region surrounding Pai, but over the years they were joined by other tribes such as the Lahu, and Lisu. There has also been a large influx of Muslims into the areas from Burma (now called Myanmar). The different cultures have blended together well in this part of Thailand and in recent years there have also been many non-Asians living there full-time as well.

It was the backpacking visitors who first make Pai a popular tourist destination. It some ways it has managed to stay a bit of backpacking haven right up until today; although there have been attempts to attract the more affluent tourist. Pai has a bit of a reputation as a hippy hangout and you will find westerners offering classes in yoga, and tai-chi, as well as selling magical crystals and talking about different types of mysticism. It has also become a fashionable place for middle-class Thais to visit as a break away from the cities.

Despite Pai’s reputation for being off the beaten track you will still find plenty aimed at the comfort of the tourist. Recent years have seen the arrival of 7-eleven, and it is probably only a matter of time before other modern establishments open locally. There are still many cheap guest houses, but there is also a lot of expensive resort accommodations springing up all the time. Hopefully it won’t become too commercialized as it is probably the peace and tranquility to be found in the surroundings that really keeps people coming back to Pai again and again.

Pai Arrivals and Departures
The journey to and from Pai involves passing through some spectacular countryside; of course if you go by plane you will be passing over this. Here are just some of the ways you can make the journey.

Plane
Pai Airport is situated in the north of the town and there are now daily flights between there and Chiang Mai; this is provided by Nok Air and SGA airlines. It only takes about thirty minutes to make the journey and there are about seven flights a day. The price of a seat on the plane is about 1,600 THB – prices can vary depending on carrier and time of year.

Rented Cars and Motorbikes
It has to be said that while the journey to Pai involves passing some spectacular scenery it is also a treacherous route. Most people will make the journey coming from Chiang Mai, and for a lot of the journey the road involves almost constant twists and turns. This can not only make riding difficult but it can damage the motorbike, not to mention the rider! There are a lot of accidents on this route and the road is very narrow in parts. You may turn a corner and find that you are in the path of an oncoming bus or lorry. It goes without saying that this route should not be attempted by an inexperienced motorcyclist. Those going by car should take it slow when the road gets bad.

Minivan
A minivan can make the journey form Chiang Mai to Pai in less than three hours. These minivans will usually wait at the departure area until they are completely full, so you probably won’t get to stretch your feet out too much. The nice thing about the minivan is that they make the journey so fast, once they get going, and they usually have air conditioning. This extra speed comes at a price though, and you may spend a lot of the journey worried that you are going to crash – just make sure you choose a driver with a lot of lucky amulets. If you suffer from travel sickness easily then you might want to take something for this. You will find out information about the different minivans going to Pai from any hotel or guest house in either location. There are also private minibuses that you can hire if you want a bit more comfort.

Ordinary Bus and Minbus
This is the cheapest way to get to Pai, but not the quickest or the most comfortable. This is probably a safer option than the minivan though, as they make the journey at a more leisurely pace. These can get very packed though and you could end up standing for the whole journey. A lot of buses don’t have air-con and those that do have air-con often have systems that are too old to be effective. This all can mean that the 4 hour journey to Pai can be a bit of a trial. The bus does stop along the way though to give people the chance to stretch their legs and get something to eat. There is also a minibus service which some people claim is a lot better than the ordinary bus or the minivan. The ordinary bus can be found at Arcade Bus Station in Chiang Mai.

Getting Around Pai
It is easy to navigate this small town on foot, but a lot of people hire bicycles or motorbikes; you will find many places to rent both of these. You will also find plenty of motorbike taxis to take you wherever you want to go.

What to See in Pai

Pai Town
Pai Town is a wonderful mix of different cultures with western influences being the latest addition to the mix. Most businesses are now aimed at the tourist and you will find everything from tribal souvenirs to hippy t-shirts. The recent increase in the number of visitors coming from other parts of Thailand means that the touristy feel of the town is likely to increase. Tourism hasn’t yet ruined Pai Town but it has changed it considerably. It is still a nice place to go for a walk in the evenings and there is always something fun happening in the town.

Pai River
Pai River (แม่น้ำปาย) is what gives the town its name and this is somewhere that it is nice to spend a bit of time. It does flood now and again and this causes a lot of havoc, but generally it is a calm river that flows for 180kms past other areas of Mae Hong Song district. There are areas along the river where people like to visit and even set up camp.

Tha Pai Hot Springs
This can be found about 8 kilometers outside of Pai and this is somewhere that will be on the itinerary of most tourists. As well as being an impressive sight there are also bathing areas where visitors can experience the wonder of the hot springs for themselves. There have been many miraculous healing powers claimed for this spring. For a long time visitors could use the spring for free, but this has now changed; dual pricing is in effect and foreigners pay five times as much (200 THB) to visit than Thais.

Mor Paeng Waterfall
Mor Paeng (น้ำตกหมอแปง) Waterfall is about 9 kilometers from Pai town on the way to Mae Hong Song. This is only a one story fall (fifteen meters high) but it is impressive all the same; most people who visit find it a good place to go swimming. A good idea is to bring along a picnic and spend a few hours just relaxing and swimming.

Mae Yen Waterfall
Mae Yen Waterfall (น้ำตกแม่เย็น) is bigger than Mor Paeng Waterfall but also a bit harder to get to. If you are feeling up to a hike it will take you about two and a half hours to get there. It is worth the effort. This waterfall has three levels and you will pass some great scenery along the way. Most people will visit this waterfall as part of a hiking tour; at least this way you won’t get lost. If you are making this trip alone it is recommended that you take food and water.

Pai Canyon
Pai Canyon (Kong Lan; กองแลน ) is another very beautiful part of the local area and well worth a visit. The canyon falls to approximately 20 meters and has been created by erosion by rain water over centuries. It can get very hot here during the day but it is a pleasant place to spend a few hours in the later afternoon or early morning. It is surrounded by a wooded area that is quite nice to look at. It is advised that you are quite careful as the side of the cliff can be a bit unstable. It is situated about 8kms from Pai town.

What to Do in Pai

Hiking
Pai is ideally located for people who want to get a bit of hiking during their trip. There are plenty of different routes to take and not only will you get to see some stunning scenery but you will also get to visit the mountain tribe settlements. Some people will join one of the many hiking tours, but just walking alone around the Pai area with a few friends will mean getting to see plenty of beautiful sights. If you do plan to go it alone you should make sure to bring food and water and have an idea about where you are going.

Cycle
You will see many people on bikes in Pai and this really is a great way to get around. Most things that you want to see will be only a cycle ride away and this is a much safer way of traveling around than a motorbike. There are many places in Pai where you will be able to rent a bicycle.

Rafting
Rafting is a very popular pastime around Pai and many visitors will give this a try during their stay. You don’t have to ever have rafted previously to enjoy this experience, as the guides will be able to show you the ropes. It is claimed that some of the best rafting in the world can be found around Pai so you might as well make the most of it during your visit. You can go on rafting tours where not only can you enjoy the challenge of the river but also visit villages along the way.

Tubing
Tubing is another way to enjoy Pai River. Just sit in one of these and let the flow of the river take you to your destination. You can organize a tubing trip from many places in the town. They will transport you a few kilometers up the river where they will give you a tube. Then you are left on your own devices.

Massage
There are a number of places offering traditional massage in the town. If you want to learn about this important part of Traditional Thai medicine then you can take a course during your stay. Some people attending these courses have returned to their home countries and made it their career.

Elephant Rides
Riding on an elephant will probably be an experience you will never forget. These huge animals are really amazing up close and you are sure to be impressed by their gentle nobility. If you visit the hot springs you will find a number of different places where you can arrange to take an elephant ride. Exploring the local jungle on the back of an elephant is highly recommended.

Rock Climbing
If this is something that you enjoy you will find a few places in the town that can organize climbing trips.

The Local Hill Tribes around Pai
One of the nice things about Pai is that it is such a unique mix of different cultures. The area around the town is the home of a number of hill tribes. You can sometimes get to see members of these groups in the town, but it can also be nice to visit their villages during a hike. Here are just some of the hill tribes you are likely to encounter in Pai.

The Karen
The Karen (กะเหรี่ยง) are the largest tribal group in Thailand with almost 300,000 people who are considered to belong to this hill tribe. They can be found in Myanmar (Burma) as well as in Thailand. They are mostly Buddhist, but many also have animist beliefs; in recent years some have converted to Christianity. The Karen have their own culture and way of dress, but in recent years many have adapted western clothing. You will meet some who favor more traditional dress, but the younger generation favor something more modern. The Karen are well known for their warm hospitality and are usually pleased to see any westerners who come to visit. The nearest Karen village to Pai is about 10km outside of the town on the road to Chiang Mai.

The Lisu
The Lisu (ลีสู่) are believed to have originally come from eastern Tibet but today can be found living in Myanmar, China, India, and Thailand. They have actually only been relatively recent arrivals to Thailand; having moved here in the last 100 years. A lot of their culture is influenced by their connection to China and the Chinese New Year is one of their biggest celebrations each year. In the past the Lisu were renowned for the fact that they mainly survived by the cultivation of opium. This has changed in recent years and they now focus on crops like vegetables and corn. Since the Ming dynasty the hill tribes have tended to always live on high ground; this has influenced how they build homes and cultivate the land.

The Lahu
Most Lahu live in China, but there are also a significant number of them living in Thailand as well as in Vietnam, Laos, and Myanmar. The Lahu tend to be very close and are said to treat each other as brothers and sisters – their villages are controlled by a type of consensus. This group has also cultivated opium for many years but has since moved to other crops. The Lahu are respected as superb weavers and many tourists will take an example of their work back home with them. There are a couple of Lahu villages near Pai; if you go to Mo Pang Waterfall you will pass through one of them.

Off the Beaten Track in Pai

The Temple on the Hill
The Temple on the Hill, or Wat Phra That Mae Yen (วัดพระธาตุแม่เย็น) as it is more commonly known, provides a great view of Pai town. It is also an interesting Buddhist temple because of its intricate wall murals. There is a bit of a climb up some steps to reach the temple, but it is well worth it for the view at the top.

Thai-Yuan Cultural Centre
The Thai-Yuan cultural center is often missed by visitors to Pai; this is a shame because it really is an interesting place. If you have never visited China then this center will give you a good introduction to the people and culture. The center is made up of Chinese type buildings and you will also find cultural artifacts such as clothing, pottery, food, and lots of other interesting stuff. You will find the Thai-Yuan cultural centre to the north of Pai.

Lod Cave
Lod Cave is one of the largest and most visited caves in Mae Hong Song. It is about 50 kms from Pai but it is well worth making the journey. There are many caverns to view and there is a river passing though the cave – you can take a trip through the cave by raft or on foot. You will be able to arrange to go on an organized tour of the caves from the agent near the entrance.

The Weekly Market
Talad Nad (ตลาดนัด) means occasional market in Thai and there is one in Pai every Wednesday. If you are going to be around on this day then it is certainly worth a visit. The weekly market in Pai is a great place to pick up some cheap gifts that you can bring home with you. As well as items made locally you will also find cheap objects brought in from China and other neighbouring countries.

Emergencies in Pai
Although the roads around Pai are quieter than many other tourist locations there can be accidents; especially when inexperienced people are riding motorbikes. If you do have any type of accident or suffer illness there is a local hospital. This will not be able to provide the same type of care as would be available in one of the main cities, but it is quite well respected. If you were to have a serious accident they would likely get you stable here before moving you on to one of the bigger hospitals. The telephone number for Pai Hospital is 053 699211.

Crime in Pai is fairly rare but it does happen. If you run into problems then it is best to deal with the tourist police on 1155.

In the past Pai had a bit of a reputation as a place to go and enjoy recreational drugs without any fear of interference. This has changed and the police have come down hard on drug use in recent years. Any tourist found in the possession of illegal substances could find themselves in very deep water. The police in Pai have been known to randomly urine test visitors for drugs. If you are ever challenged by the Thai police do not argue with them or offer any type of resistance.

Highlights of Pai
- Visiting the hill tribe villages and seeing how these groups have managed to maintain their own unique culture.
- Spending a few hours relaxing in one of the bathing areas at the hot spas.
- Spending the afternoon rafting and testing yourself against the river

Where to Next?
- Chiang Mai is the most usual destination before and after Pai. If you fancy a change from all that peace and quiet then the largest city in Northern Thailand would be a good choice.
- Mae Hong Song is well worth a visit if you want to get off the tourist route. It is a border city so this can have a bit of an edgy feel to it. If you like a lot of entertainment options at night then you might be a bit disappointed by Mae Hong Song.
- Chiang Rai is one of the fastest growing cities in Thailand and is well worth a visit. There is a strong Chinese influence here and even some of the street names are written in Chinese script.